COLORWAVE SOCKS
By Sara Baldwin ©2004
SARA'S COLORWAVE YARN is specially dyed so that the colors will stack nicely into zig-zaggy vertical or
slowly spiraling bands as the sock is knit, provided you follow this pattern.
GAUGE: 7 stitches per inch in stockinette stitch (directions for 8 stitches per inch are in parantheses) To
determine your gauge: Cast on 30 stitches and knit in stockinette stitch (knit a row, purl a row) for about an
inch. Measure the width of your swatch. Your gauge is equal to the number of stitches (30) divided by the
swatch width in inches.
SIZE: Women’s medium, about shoe size 6-9 (length adjustable)
FINISHED FOOT LENGTH: 9 ½ inches (adjustable)
FINISHED FOOT CIRCUMFERENCE: 8 inches. Please note that if you need to adjust the circumference of
the sock, the colors will not stack in the manner of the photo, although you can still use the yarn and pattern.
MATERIALS: Double pointed knitting needles size 1-2 (0-1) (you may want to adjust the needle size up or
down to get the color effects you desire). It would also be a good idea to add wooly nylon or some other
reinforcing thread to the heel and toe areas to improve wear.
CUFF: With double pointed needles, loosely cast on 60 (68) stitches. Join, being careful not to twist.
Working in rounds, make k2 p2 ribbing for about an inch. If the colors don’t puddle up as you desire,
proceed as follows: if the color bands slant to the left, try going up a needle size or two (it won’t be
noticeable). If the color bands slant to the right, try going down a needle size. Continue in k2 p2 ribbing for
a total of 5 inches, or desired length.
Decrease round: *K 15, k2 tog* around, for a total of 56 (64) stitches. Work in stockinette stitch (knit
every round) for twelve more rounds.
HEEL FLAP: Arrange your stitches on the needles so that there are 28 (32) stitches on one needle, and the
other two have 14 (16) each. These 28 (32) stitches will be worked back and forth for the heel flap. The
other two needles will become inactive until you start the gusset.
Row 1: *S1, k1*: 28 (32) stitches, turn.
Row 2: S1, p across, turn.
Repeat these two rows 36 times, so there are 18 slip-stitch rows. Next row: S1, k across, turn. Next row:
repeat row 2. Next row: S1, k across, turn.
TURN HEEL:
Row 1: S1, p15 (17), p2tog, p1, turn: 9 (11) stitches remain unworked
Row 2: S1, k5, ssk, k1, turn: 9 (11) stitches remain unworked
Row 3: S1, p6, p2tog, p1, turn: 7 (9) unworked
Row 4: S1, k7, ssk, k1, turn: 7 (9) unworked
Row 5: S1, p8, p2tog, p1, turn: 5 (7) unworked
Row 6: S1, k9, ssk, k1, turn: 5 (7) unworked
Row 7: S1, p10, p2tog, p1, turn: 3(5) unworked
Row 8: S1, k11, ssk, k1, turn: 3(5) unworked
Row 9: S1, p12, p2tog, p1, turn: 1 (3) unworked
Row 10: S1, k13, ssk, k1, turn: 1 (3) unworked
If your gauge is 7 stitches per inch:
Row 11: S1, p14, p2tog, turn: 0 unworked
Row 12: S1, k15, ssk, turn: 0 unworked DO NOT TURN!
If your gauge is 8 stitches per inch:
Row 11: S1, p14, p2tog, p1, turn: 1 unworked
Row 12: S1, k15, ssk, k1, turn: 1 unworked
Row 13: S1, p16, p2tog, turn: 0 unworked
Row 14: S1, k16, ssk :0 unworked DO NOT TURN!
These 16 (18) stitches are now at the center (base) of the heel. Combine the waiting 28 (32) instep (top of the
foot) stitches onto one needle. Slide 8 (9) of the 16 (18) heel stitches onto your free needle. The join
between these two needles becomes the new center of the round.
GUSSET: With the first needle, pick up and knit 21 stitches along the edge of the heel flap, for 29 (30)
total. Knit across the 28 (32) instep stitches (second needle). Then pick up and knit 21 stitches along the
other edge of the heel flap, and combine and knit the 8 (9) remaining heel stitches, for a total of 29 (30)
stitches (third needle).
Round 1 (decrease round): First needle: knit to within 3 stitches of the end of the needle, k2tog, k1.
Second needle: knit across. Third needle: K1, ssk, knit to end.
Round 2: Knit around.
Repeat the decrease round and the even round until 16 stitches remain on the first and third needles. There
should be 56 (64) stitches total when all gusset decreases are completed.
FOOT: Knit even for a total of 7 ½ inches, or desired length (the sock should come about to the base of
your big toe).
TOE: Round 1 (decrease round): First needle: Knit to within 3 stitches of the end, k2tog, k1. Second
needle: K1, ssk, knit to within 3 stitches of the end, k2tog, k1. Third needle: K1, ssk, k to end.
Round 2: Knit around even.
Repeat these two rounds until there are 7 stitches on the first and third needles, and 14 stitches on the
second needle. Then skip Round 2 and do another decrease round. Knit across the 6 stitches of the first
needle, and combine the stitches with the third. Cut the yarn, leaving a 12-inch tail. Thread the tail in a
yarn needle. Graft the toe stitches together, and fasten off the loose ends.
By Sara Baldwin ©2004
SARA'S COLORWAVE YARN is specially dyed so that the colors will stack nicely into zig-zaggy vertical or
slowly spiraling bands as the sock is knit, provided you follow this pattern.
GAUGE: 7 stitches per inch in stockinette stitch (directions for 8 stitches per inch are in parantheses) To
determine your gauge: Cast on 30 stitches and knit in stockinette stitch (knit a row, purl a row) for about an
inch. Measure the width of your swatch. Your gauge is equal to the number of stitches (30) divided by the
swatch width in inches.
SIZE: Women’s medium, about shoe size 6-9 (length adjustable)
FINISHED FOOT LENGTH: 9 ½ inches (adjustable)
FINISHED FOOT CIRCUMFERENCE: 8 inches. Please note that if you need to adjust the circumference of
the sock, the colors will not stack in the manner of the photo, although you can still use the yarn and pattern.
MATERIALS: Double pointed knitting needles size 1-2 (0-1) (you may want to adjust the needle size up or
down to get the color effects you desire). It would also be a good idea to add wooly nylon or some other
reinforcing thread to the heel and toe areas to improve wear.
CUFF: With double pointed needles, loosely cast on 60 (68) stitches. Join, being careful not to twist.
Working in rounds, make k2 p2 ribbing for about an inch. If the colors don’t puddle up as you desire,
proceed as follows: if the color bands slant to the left, try going up a needle size or two (it won’t be
noticeable). If the color bands slant to the right, try going down a needle size. Continue in k2 p2 ribbing for
a total of 5 inches, or desired length.
Decrease round: *K 15, k2 tog* around, for a total of 56 (64) stitches. Work in stockinette stitch (knit
every round) for twelve more rounds.
HEEL FLAP: Arrange your stitches on the needles so that there are 28 (32) stitches on one needle, and the
other two have 14 (16) each. These 28 (32) stitches will be worked back and forth for the heel flap. The
other two needles will become inactive until you start the gusset.
Row 1: *S1, k1*: 28 (32) stitches, turn.
Row 2: S1, p across, turn.
Repeat these two rows 36 times, so there are 18 slip-stitch rows. Next row: S1, k across, turn. Next row:
repeat row 2. Next row: S1, k across, turn.
TURN HEEL:
Row 1: S1, p15 (17), p2tog, p1, turn: 9 (11) stitches remain unworked
Row 2: S1, k5, ssk, k1, turn: 9 (11) stitches remain unworked
Row 3: S1, p6, p2tog, p1, turn: 7 (9) unworked
Row 4: S1, k7, ssk, k1, turn: 7 (9) unworked
Row 5: S1, p8, p2tog, p1, turn: 5 (7) unworked
Row 6: S1, k9, ssk, k1, turn: 5 (7) unworked
Row 7: S1, p10, p2tog, p1, turn: 3(5) unworked
Row 8: S1, k11, ssk, k1, turn: 3(5) unworked
Row 9: S1, p12, p2tog, p1, turn: 1 (3) unworked
Row 10: S1, k13, ssk, k1, turn: 1 (3) unworked
If your gauge is 7 stitches per inch:
Row 11: S1, p14, p2tog, turn: 0 unworked
Row 12: S1, k15, ssk, turn: 0 unworked DO NOT TURN!
If your gauge is 8 stitches per inch:
Row 11: S1, p14, p2tog, p1, turn: 1 unworked
Row 12: S1, k15, ssk, k1, turn: 1 unworked
Row 13: S1, p16, p2tog, turn: 0 unworked
Row 14: S1, k16, ssk :0 unworked DO NOT TURN!
These 16 (18) stitches are now at the center (base) of the heel. Combine the waiting 28 (32) instep (top of the
foot) stitches onto one needle. Slide 8 (9) of the 16 (18) heel stitches onto your free needle. The join
between these two needles becomes the new center of the round.
GUSSET: With the first needle, pick up and knit 21 stitches along the edge of the heel flap, for 29 (30)
total. Knit across the 28 (32) instep stitches (second needle). Then pick up and knit 21 stitches along the
other edge of the heel flap, and combine and knit the 8 (9) remaining heel stitches, for a total of 29 (30)
stitches (third needle).
Round 1 (decrease round): First needle: knit to within 3 stitches of the end of the needle, k2tog, k1.
Second needle: knit across. Third needle: K1, ssk, knit to end.
Round 2: Knit around.
Repeat the decrease round and the even round until 16 stitches remain on the first and third needles. There
should be 56 (64) stitches total when all gusset decreases are completed.
FOOT: Knit even for a total of 7 ½ inches, or desired length (the sock should come about to the base of
your big toe).
TOE: Round 1 (decrease round): First needle: Knit to within 3 stitches of the end, k2tog, k1. Second
needle: K1, ssk, knit to within 3 stitches of the end, k2tog, k1. Third needle: K1, ssk, k to end.
Round 2: Knit around even.
Repeat these two rounds until there are 7 stitches on the first and third needles, and 14 stitches on the
second needle. Then skip Round 2 and do another decrease round. Knit across the 6 stitches of the first
needle, and combine the stitches with the third. Cut the yarn, leaving a 12-inch tail. Thread the tail in a
yarn needle. Graft the toe stitches together, and fasten off the loose ends.
